Two days ago I promised and am here today to deliver a post about the Port-au-Prince airport—so here we go.
First a bit of background—
Just before my first trip to Haiti during the last week of March 2010, 8 months ago, Toussant Louverture International Airport had only recently begun operating in any remotely routine way since the January 12th earthquake. Before March the only real way to get to Port-au-Prince from outside the country, if you weren’t a plane carrying emergency relief supplies, was to fly into the Dominican Republic and endure an 8 hour drive across the island of Hispaniola to the Haitian capital—a route Sara took a few too many times.
So—in March when my plane landed in Port-au-Prince, things were, shall we say—chaotic. Though a band played Caribbean steel drums for the passengers deplaning, what I discovered inside the warehouse-like building that was then, and is still, being used for immigration and baggage claim was more akin to an episode of Survivor than anything remotely resembling an airport in any nation’s capital in the entire Western Hemisphere.
The passing glance immigration “officials” gave my passport and travel documents, moving me on with a stamp and a wave, though disconcerting, was nothing compared to the pandemonium I discovered beyond immigration—utter and complete pandemonium in a cavernous space mountained with luggage we were meant to ultimately “claim,” without any apparent procedure, without any remotely organized way for passengers to examine and sort out which suitcases belonged to them.
This masqueraded as “Baggage Claim.”
However—there was what initially seemed one saving grace—namely an assortment of limp-along luggage carts—costing a mere arm or leg—though they may have settled for a finger or toe had we gotten down to the anatomical nitty-gritty. Initially this seemed a hopeful development—hopeful until I realized there was no way—literally no way in hell—one could wheel a luggage cart anywhere in that room so strewn with bags it looked like the contents of a small Samsonite store room had been turned upside down and emptied on the spot.
Then it hit me—the only conceivable escape—meant asking for help. I considered tears but decided in the interest of minimizing the look of vulnerability that is the American way in the face of Haiti’s seeming systemlessness—a more proactive assault of an airport employee was in order. I didn’t care what it cost, I was willing to pay any and all “special fees” in the ultimate interest of baggage possession.
And thanks to one heroic airport employee, I ended up not having to assault after all—I got my bags. For apparently, underneath the mountains of seeming disorder, there existed a system, invisible to me, but some protocol for baggage retrieval that worked for my new Haitian friend. Because, I promise, in not more than 5 Port-au-Prince minutes he returned with my VERY over-weight bags— 88 and 89 pounds respectively. The suitcases were full of household items, including an entire set of butcher knives—since Sara, when purchasing her first kitchen tool in Port-au-Prince (a manual can opener that would have cost less than 2 dollars in the US) had paid a grand total of 22 dollars and 66 cents! Inevitably fearing that the most basic of kitchen utensils were going to cost at least a month’s salary, if not a small life-savings, I hauled nearly half the inventory of William Sonoma in with me.
Ultimately, I exited the airport that day into a desperate crowd of newly-homeless Haitians, needing nearly everything, from dinner to a warm bed and a roof over their heads. But I found Sara—I survived!
Survived, only to return to the scene of the crime a week later—the first of anyone remotely associated with Sara’s NGO to leave the country through the newly-opened airport.
Since no one knew what to expect, I arrived an optimistic 2 ½ hours before departure—seemingly plenty of time. Until 2 ½ hours later, I still hadn’t made it into the terminal itself, crowds of needy people were thronging the facility so intensely.
I called Sara a number of times from outside the airport that morning, convinced I would miss my flight. She assumed I was over-reacting—until— I called after finally making it inside—terrified.
“Listen, this is not a workable way to leave the country—someone needs to come get me—I’ll get out of the country some other day, some other way—any other way. I swear, Baby, this is not an option.”
“But what line are you in?”
“Line!” I screeched. “You assume there’s anything remotely resembling a ‘LINE!’ This is more swarm than line, more stampede than queue!”
Quickly gathering her wits, recognizing my psychotic break was imminent, Sara, disaster response specialist that she is, yelled at me over the cacophony and clamor, “Listen! Remember! You always do best when things are really, really bad. You do bad really well!”
“Yeah. Okay. You’re right. I’ll call you when I get to the gate.” Click.
And though it may have been foolish to assume I would EVER get to ANYTHING remotely resembling a “gate”—I knew—I knew in that moment that I would be fine—that I would survive.
I knew in that moment that I could do Haiti.
Yeah—I DO do bad really well!
And though Haiti IS really bad—it’s getting better.
Though it’s still the poorest nation in the Western Hemisphere, the airport in Port-au-Prince has improved since March.
Though it’s still chaotic and dangerous because of that chaos, though “baggage claim” still doesn’t resemble that of Miami or Houston, we now know it helps enormously to have Samuel’s escort through the chaos (see post from several days ago).
Though, since March, Haiti has suffered a hurricane, cholera, and a fraudulent presidential election, the Haitian people carry on.
They are resilient.
Tiny lights twinkling from the darkest corner of the Caribbean!
So remember, like the Haitian people, to shine this Christmas—shine!
Wow, quite an introduction to your new home in Haiti. I can imagine how you felt, but it does seem you do bad really well and are resourceful. Quite a culture shock to experience things that are so different from what you’re used to.
Have a great weekend in your twinkly-lit Caribbean island.
Thanks, Sunshine! It was a shock! Hope you have a great weekend in snowy London! Is it still snowing?
Living and travelling in a third world country must take some getting used to. Fine if you’re just there for a holiday, a whole different thing if you’re living there long term. I guess it would also make you appreciate things back home a lot more.
Sounds like Sara and you make a very good team. Sara definitely is somebody I’d want around in a disaster!
Yes, Sara is someone to have around during a disaster and especially afterward. I don’t know where she’s gotten it from! Hope you’re enjoying your weekend!
Horrific, sad, funny and inspiring! I love the “lights twinkling” image. It’s a great post.
Thanks, Marianne–I’m so glad you enjoyed it–especially the image of twinkling lights! Happy Sunday to you from here in Haiti!
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I discovered your blog well after you wrote this post Kathy, but this is a wonderful post. And, I learned something about you that you should remind yourself the next time you face the insecurity of not knowing, you “do bad really well.” Not that your next move will necessarily be bad, but living with the unknown can feel like bad (trust me, I know this all too well). But you needn’t worry with a partner like Sara and your ability to struggle and survive.
How funny! Do you do bad well, also? It’s one of my specialties–ha, ha! But you are right–Sara is helping me feel more comfortable with the unknown. Thank God!
I think I do bad really well. I’m not sure I do good very well. 😉
I think my heart rate went up a little while reading this. Airports can be harrowing as it is, but this takes the cake. Good to hear things have got better there…and that you survived 🙂
Yes, those were some really crazy airport encounters! By the time we moved home from Haiti a year later things were much, much better! Thank God!
Wow. Just wow.
“Wow” is right! It was one big “WOW!”